A colorblind photoblog.
2010.05.13 by Daniel

Hanging in Saigon, choosing Binh Hoa over Nha Trang

On May 12 Tien and I got an early breakfast and decided to walk down to the river. It looked nicer on the map than it actually was, due to construction and heavy traffic, but it was nice all the same. We ran into an Australian couple and asked them to take our picture, then chatted about traveling Vietnam for a while. They said they were staying at the foot of a very large, impressive skyscraper that was being built nearby that I'd been talking about with Tien earlier. It's a financial tower, and I was talking about how its presence will definitely change the surrounding areas, which were already showing a heavy western influence. We found a cafe and sat for a while, watching Hero, drinking smoothies and playing with the iPad. The walk back to the hotel was longer than I'd remembered, and by the time we got there it was time for lunch. We went back to the restaurant we'd eaten lunch at the day before and this time I took time to scrutinize the menu a bit more. It had some very interesting things, to say the least... Sauted [sic] noodle w. 3 special objects, Cow marrow ommelette [sic], Sauted [sic] ox pennis [sic] w. Satay, Grilled bloody clam w. fat & green onion, and Grilled crocodile file [sic] w. fish sauce were some of the highlights. We watched a movie, then went out for doughnuts. They gave us a receipt. On the way back I saw a lingerie store with two half naked mannequins in the front window. A sign read "50% off." Indeed. As we entered the hotel the man at the front desk lowered his cell phone, which he was holding facing the door, and greeted us. It was interesting because I'd seen him do that before and thought he might be taking our picture. Also of note was that nobody at the hotel was familiar. Tien had gotten to know the staff before and they recognized us every time, but this time nobody knew us, and here was some guy doing something potentially creepy. It weirded me out and I mentioned it to Tien in the elevator. On May 13 we headed to our usual breakfast spot and sat upstairs looking down on the intersection. I watched all the different people passing by and thought about all the different ways of life in Saigon, and the world in general. I wondered which of my friends would enjoy coming to Saigon and which would have a hard time adjusting. Tien and I talked a lot about cultural differences and how hard it is to give people insight into what a foreign place is actually like, and I said I couldn't really think of much to show her what American culture would be like. The original plan was for us to take off to Vung Tau, Mui Ne or Nha Trang for a while, but we decided to go back to her hometown and then go off to Ha Tien beach instead, so we booked a bus home and headed out. The bus driver was really fast and we expected the trip to only last 4.5 hours. The music was loud and there was an intermittent sound of one of those really irritating alarm clocks. We also passed the scene of a motorbike wreck that had just happened. Fluids were still flowing across the highway from the mangled wreckage and a bleeding man was in the arms of another man on the back of a motorbike that was just taking off down the highway. When we came upon the wreck, Tien had been in the middle of telling me a joke, which she told like this... "There was a blue and a red monkey sitting in a tree. The blue monkey jumped into the river, which one was left?" "The blue one." "No, that would be too easy." "WTF, is that the joke?" "People here think it's funny!" "I think it's retarded, that's not remotely funny. So that's the punchline? 'No, that would be too easy'?" "No." "Then how does it go??" "There's a blue monkey and a red monkey sitting in a tree. The red one jumped into the river, which one is left?" "The blue one..." "Nope, the right one." "WTF, that doesn't make any sense." "No, it's the opposite!" "The opposite of what...? Left? Wrong?" "No, of wet." "Right is not the opposite of wet. Dry is." "Oh, yeah, the dry one." "..." It took us 2 hours to get to the other side of the big bridge in Tan Hoa, something I'd never timed before but wanted to do because it always seems to take forever to get from there to Saigon. There was a cute little kid sitting ahead of us that I'd been playing with from time to time. He was really shy, but he warmed up to me and began playing little games with me. Then he began spitting, and all the sudden he wasn't cute at all anymore. He was just a rude little bastard that I wanted to smack. I didn't though, and eventually his mom did so for me and made him behave. Right as we left Long Xuyen heading for Binh Hoa it began to rain heavily. We passed two people on a motorbike and sprayed them with water, and to top it off, one of the employees on the bus opened his window, pointed at them and laughed at their misfortune. I found this doubly hilarious. I started adjusting my things to get ready to get off the bus, when I noticed that my wallet was missing all of the US dollars that had been in it. When they were in it, I don't remember, but they were missing then. All that I knew was that my wallet had been in my pocket since we left the hotel, and that meant that somebody at the Ruby Star had been the one who took it. Maybe that creep with the cell phone, maybe the cleaning staff, I'll probably never find out. I'll probably never go back to the Ruby Star either. It was right as soon as I settled on that when we realized the bus had missed the stop in Binh Hoa and was crossing over the bridge into the neighborhood on the other side of the river. Tien argued a little with the bus folks and they ended up dropping us off on the other side of the bridge where rain water was flooding a business at the side of the road. We crossed to a cafe on the drier side of the road and got some coffee. Tien's sister was busy fighting a leak in the roof of her new house and said she'd come get us when the rain stopped. Tien and I sat and talked a while with the family who owned the shop. They wanted to talk to me and asked a lot of questions about where I was from, how we knew each other, and said I was handsome. This tends to be the standard set of interaction between Tien, me and interested strangers. She thinks it's remarkable how everybody says I'm handsome, but I think it's probably just custom. There was also a family next door to the coffee shop who knew Tiens family, so we went over there and visited for a few minutes before Tien's brother and sister showed up on two motorbikes to take us back to the village. We arrived at Thu's house, which I had never seen before, and relaxed with the family, finally home. We ate some doughnuts that we'd bought in Saigon, and some chocolate I had brought from America, and tried to find batteries for a remote controlled helicopter that I'd brought as a joking gift for Tien that stemmed from a conversation we'd had online about flying over the puddles. The helicopter ended up being a lot of fun though and I'm glad I brought it. It wasn't nearly as entertaining as the Wii that I brought though. Tien said she doesn't know anybody in Vietnam who has a Wii, and had never seen one before I showed it to her online a few weeks back.
  •   •   •   •   •
2009.11.06 by Daniel

A Tour of Đà Lạt

Friday morning I woke up to the delightful news that all but one of the files on my corrupt hard disk had been recovered and I knew I had that file, a photo from last new year, back in america. Tien and I went outside and had breakfast on the terrace in front of the hotel entrance. It was cold out there but the only place to sit was outside. We needed to find some warm clothes. After some small interactions with the hotel staff I thought about how at one time I thought that you would know you knew a language well if you got their jokes, but by this time I knew I was dead wrong. Humor exists outside of spoken language and is sometimes the first thing you find to communicate with somebody. I looked down into the courtyard and saw a man by a Motorcycle with an easy rider logo on it. Tien and I decided it would be a good way to see the city if we took a tour. After breakfast a bus came by the hotel and took us off to where a tour had just started. Thiền Viện Trúc Lâm We were greeted by a tour guide who was incredibly hard to understand. Most of what he was saying I could derive from the context and surrounding sounds, but it was the important bits, the things I didn't know and thus had no context for, that I was unable to understand. The first place we went was a temple called Truc Lan. It was a meditation center where people came from all over in order to study. We didn't stay long and it began raining shortly after we arrived. Stop 2 was a waterfall called Datanla. The parking lot was at the top and we were given the option to ride a roller coaster to the bottom or walk down. Despite the fact that last time Tien had been on a roller coaster she went into shock I asked her anyway if she wanted to take it. Of course she didn't and so we walked. The waterfall was beautiful and pretty big compared to all of the waterfalls I've seen in recent years. The path to it went through the forest and under the roller coaster a few times. Back at the top there were shops that I had ignored on the way down. There were women knitting hats and men carving wood into various shapes. Tien bought a black knit beanie with a white flower on it. I went to look for a drink and discovered that beer was only 9k compared to 15k for a pepsi. We were just getting started on the day so I bought a pepsi. Stop three was the Lat Kings house. I listened to the tour guide talk for a while and made out much of what he said, but in the end I decided it wasn't worth even listening to him and gave up. Tien and I took a bunch of photos in the kings house and I really wished I had more of my gear or a d700 to widen the perspective of my PC-E 24mm lens. Some girl from our tour seemed to always be standing in my way talking on the phone so I eventually skipped ahead of her. We ended up with not enough time and were late getting back to the bus, but were somehow the first ones there. On the way to lunch Tien said that nothing has changed in the 11 years since she was past in Da Lat. This was remarkable because it seems like they're always doing construction everywhere in Vietnam. Colorado Springs would be so jealous. Stop four was lunch. The restaurant was playing instrumental anthems like Chariots of Fire, Crockett's Theme, and a dream rock rendition of I need Your Love. The sauce with the chicken had a tinge of MSG, but otherwise the food was remarkably delicious. Even the beef that came in a tin foil packet that shouted to us that it was made another and reheated for our lunch was incredible. Stop five of our tour was a big Buddha statue that the tour guide claimed was the biggest Buddha in Vietnam. Tien and I disagreed silently, knowing that the Buddha on Mt. Cam was bigger. I just smiled and nodded through the rest of what he said about the monks doing something and some other people that seemed really important had done something else. Suspended Animation Stop six was called The Valley of Love. It was a sad, wet, cold place where pale colored carnival rides sat motionless in the mud under a crying grey sky. There was a monkey chained up in a cage by himself going crazy and a metal lattice awning without a single flower growing on the one vine resilient enough to withstand the gloom. There were some miserable horses and yet more construction. As we were leaving this last sullen stop on our tour I thought about the catch 22 of tourist places. Here in Da Lat I didn't have a thousand eyes staring at me everywhere I went and random people saying hello to me as I walked down the street. The flip side was that it was not as genuine and the prices were obviously geared towards foreign travelers. We returned to the hotel and crashed, tired from all the walking. It was evening when we awoke. We got some dinner at a place that had only one thing available, then bought and umbrella and went for a walk down by the lake. We found a market where I bought a knit hat and an Adidas jacket and immediately felt much warmer. I thought it was weird that I had to buy a jacket in Vietnam, but I guess that's how it really is. We also bought some pistachios and a bottle of wine, then moseyed on back to the hotel for the night.
  •   •   •   •   •
2009.10.25 by Daniel

Hanging out with Dat and Trinh

On Sunday, my first morning back in Vietnam, Tien and I went to our old breakfast place. It was OK, but honestly it's lost its sentimental value with the realization that it's not that great of a restaurant. It is very convenient though. After breakfast we went back to the hotel room and did some online stuff and fell asleep for a long, long time.

When we woke up, Tien's friend Trinh and her boyfriend Dat were on their way to visit us with a couple of motorbikes. Tien and I hadn't eaten dinner yet so when they arrived we went out to find some food. We'd planned on getting pho, but Tien forgot about that and we ended up going to KFC. I was amused by this, expecting their menu to have interesting variations not available in America, but I didn't see anything that was out of the ordinary. I quizzed Tien on what KFC meant and who that guy was, and she had absolutely no idea. Not much of a surprise there from a girl who didn't know McDonalds or Starbucks until she went to Malaysia, and this is one of the things I love about her.

After dinner we headed out into the night traffic and instantly got separated from Dat and Trinh. Saigon traffic can be pretty crazy and Tien isn't used to the big city so she isn't assertive in her motorbiking. This later lead to us putting more effort into figuring out how to get me a motorbike license in VN. The four of us on two bikes cruised around the city a little bit in rain amounts varying between none and pouring, but it was warm so it wasn't all that bad. We did get drenched though, and decided to just call it a night.

That night I found it very hard to sleep, most likely from how long I'd slept earlier that day.

Monday morning we woke up and tried to find a place different from the usual place we eat breakfast, but couldn't find anything before our hunger took priority and we went back there. On our walk we saw a minor motorbike crash. I haven't seen many traffic accidents here, and none have been bad since people tend to go pretty slowly, but this was the first of two that I saw that day.

Trinh and Dat came back to the hotel and we four headed out to a park where Trinh liked to go a lot when she still had free time, Bình Quoí 1. It was labeled as a tourist park, but was essentially a portrait photographers playground. TT at the fallsThere were barely any tourists there, but what there were plenty of was beautiful girls dressed to the 9's posing in front of cameras. There were also several couples who were getting their engagement photos taken by professional photography crews, complete with off-cam lighting, props and makeup artists. The park was laid out with paths leading past backdrop after backdrop. A waterfall, a cart, a cyclo, a ruined brick wall, a ruined wall with pillars, a stone with flowers next to a pond, a bench on a lawn, a bamboo swing, a barrel and ladle, a causeway across a pond, a canoe in the pond, water lilies, flowers growing in vines up trees, stone statues, so on and so forth. This made it easy for photographers to play musical backdrops with each other, shuffling from one to the next to put their respective couples into the various scenes. Honestly it was pretty brilliant, and it didn't cost anything for us to get in either. I assume they made their money off charging professional crews and selling food and water at the eateries that were scattered throughout the campus.

The four of us spent an hour or so walking around and taking photographs, then headed back towards downtown. We stopped on the way back and I got some absolutely terrible spaghetti carbonara while Tien enjoyed delicious vietnamese food. I resolved not to buy anything too culinarily distant from VN food from now on.

On the way home I saw a blind beggar holding a cane and a hat with his eyes rolled back in his head kneeling at the side of the road where hundreds of motorbikes were passing by.

Back near the hotel Tien and I tried to find a pharmacy for my malaria meds but couldn't find anything. We resolved to find it later and went back inside to take a rest. I fell asleep and didn't wake up for several hours. My sleeping schedule still hadn't adjusted yet and it was taking a toll on my daylight hours and my energy.

We went briefly out with Dat and Trinh again to grab some dinner, then they headed home while Tien and I retired to the old Ruby Star.

  •   •   •   •   •
2009.07.14 by Daniel

Visa Issues

Sunday was a rainy day. Everybody was hanging out because there's not much to do outside when it's rainy, and it's difficult to get places on a scooter while it's raining. I was on my computer fiddling around when Tien came in looking a little sad and told me that her mother and sister didn't approve of us getting a tourist visa to get into the USA quickly because they said it was impossible, and that if we wanted to do it that way we didn't need to celebrate the engagement party. I didn't understand why on earth those two things had anything to do with each other. We talked a long time about it and I could barely make sense of it. I was incredibly frustrated and started questioning everything, which is typical "shit doesn't make sense" behavior for me. Tien and I went out to a nearby cafe. The place was wide open, as most places in this area are. It was made up of a grid of posts holding up a thatched roof and between the posts were hammocks. In the centers of the squares created by the hammocks were tables and chairs. We sat at one table and Tien ordered a milk that she ended up never touching. We again tried to make sense of things, tried to figure out a plan to get into America at the end of the month. We were still set on getting the tourist visa because it only made sense, so we decided to somehow continue down that path. With that resolve, we rode off to another restaurant and got food and beer. Just as we sat down it began to rain heavily with lots of wind, and for the first time in Vietnam I was cold and wished I had a hoodie. Tien hadn't dressed well for the weather and was freezing. When the wind and rain subsided a little bit we got on the scooter and rode home through the rain, then cuddled up under a blanket to get warm, eventually migrating to the bed and sleeping for the rest of the night. Monday I woke up with the intent to unravel every last detail I could find about the tourist visa and whether or not it was a good idea. Just as we were filling out the form I noticed one detail and decided to do some googling before submitting the application. About 30 minutes later I had relented to doing things a different way, with the fiance visa. It was not because going to the USA on a tourist visa was impossible, but because the short time frame we were aiming for could create some large legal hurdles in the future, potentially creating immense problems for us that could last years. I decided it was better to wait a few months and get things done easily from the beginning than spend years trying to sort things out. I decided this because I am already exhausted from all the bullshit associated with US immigration. It's unbelievable how difficult it is to get things done the right way, and it is very easy to see why so many people take shortcuts or simply enter the country illegally. For many people I would wager to say there is hardly an alternative to illegal entry. When I looked through forums online I found many many people who were also incredibly frustrated at how difficult it is to legally immigrate their fiance or spouse. This seems to be par for the course with the US gov though. Just look at the recent stimulus bills that essentially gave the irresponsible people a free ride out of responsibility and shared that burden with those of us who had been responsible all along. Through all of this, every time I ran into another detail with the word "months" in it I thought of Anthony Hopkins after he had his stroke in The Legends of the Fall, talking to his son Brad Pitt. "Screw the government." I also found a website, www.visajourney.com, that tracks visa processing times and although the estimated time for a fiancé visa is 6 months, apparently it only takes 75 days on average in Ho Chi Minh City, which was much more reasonable. So, after conceding defeat, Tien and I headed into town to take care of some things for our engagement party. I saw men playing soccer barefoot in a parking lot off the side of the road. While we were riding I heard somebody call out, and when I turned to look it was the fight guy from the bus. I was so amazed to see somebody I actually knew while I was out and about that before I knew it I'd smacked him on the arm even as we were riding and said "look at this guy!" as if he could speak english. Tien laughed a lot and then some stuff was said in Vietnamese and soon I waved goodbye. That evening Tien and I went to a more upscale lounge style restaurant, probably the most swank place I've been in Vietnam, and got some smoothies. It amazes me that so many of these places don't even have alcoholic drinks on the menu. A lounge like this place in SF would be charging $8+ for cocktails and probably wouldn't even have a blender to make a smoothie with if you wanted one. We watched some American movie on TV and waited for the standard evening rain to stop, but it didn't stop, so again we just rode home in the rain.
  •   •   •   •   •
2009.06.05 by Daniel

Another day in the shop

There's nothing incredibly exciting going on yet. We were going to plan my trip to Ha Long bay yesterday but the power outage kinda messed that up. Today we're going to square that away, and tomorrow we'll probably be going back to Ho Chi Minh City. This morning I woke up eaten by mosquitoes, probably because I didn't put on insect repellant before we went out last night to get some smoothies in a nearby village. I took a shower, and when I was done I shaved in the sink which is outside on the back porch, rain pouring down, listening to Pretty Lights on my iPhone. Too bad I couldn't have photographed that.Scooter in the Market Tien and I went down to the market for breakfast and had some ramen style soup stuff.  The american idea of breakfast as being a separate type of meal from other meals is completely gone.  All meals are equal here. I'll never be impressed again when I watch a movie and somebody drives a motorcycle through a store or through a crowded market. That happens all the time here, but it's not some badass chasing a bad guy, it's people like your mom and they're going shopping for teddy bear phone charms and perfume. Tien and I played hacky sack in the shop, she picked it up really quickly! She seems to be a quick learner and skilled with her hands and feet. After hacky sack I taught her how to juggle using the hacky sack and two bottles of Naco cosmetic vitamin cream. Tien in the shopShe picked up juggling equally quick. It was sad when I told her how great she was doing and she said that other people never said things like, never told her she was smart or talented. We sat in the shop for a while and listened to music, talking about lyrics (thank you PearLyrics, damn you big industry music companies) and how melody is greater than genre. I'm not sure how much of what I was saying she understood, but I know she got the idea. We played Wurdle too, which was good for her english. We walked home and the power was out again, but quickly came on, then off, then on. We had a somewhat American lunch, some kind of stew with bread, and now we really need to figure out this weekends plans. Off to a beach, I think, to buy some stuff I need, and then I'm off to Ha Long bay on Monday! Or so goes the plan... One thing I learned quick, before I even left, was that you can plan, but you don't ever really know what's going to happen.
  •   •   •   •   •
2009.06.04 by Daniel

Crusin’ and Relaxin’

Today I was planning on taking part of the morning to check online for options to go to Ha Long bay and to call Igor to ask him about some comments he left concerning traveling Laos and Cambodia. Before doing that we had a somewhat American breakfast with eggs and bread, but with the addition of peppered soy sauce, radish and cucumber. It was really freakin good, you should try it. It was raining pretty heavy and before I could go online the power went out in all of Binh Hoa, which Tien said is pretty uncommon. The rain stopped but the power was still out. Tien and I decided to go cruise around the and take photos so we mounted up on her scooter and headed down the tiny streets of her village. Foot Bridge in Binh Hoa When I say tiny, I mean about maybe 8-10 feet wide for two-way traffic. Smaller than the sidewalks on Market Street in San Francisco. I got to photograph the cool foot-bridge style bridges that people ride over the rivers, and actually got off the scooter to photograph some stuff. That's awesome because it's so hard to photograph things from a scooter not only because things are flying by, but because your brain composites the pieces of information that your eyes take in and makes it appear like you have a better view than you actually do, and the truth about this shows up in a photograph. When we got home there was a terrible smell in the house, which I thought might be due to spoiled food, but was actually some pigs that the neighbors decided to let out in their back yard. I never got the whole story on that, but we ended up sitting in the front room fanning ourselves for a while until somebody filled the house with perfume and we came inside to eat fruit and try to stay cool. Most of us ended up napping, me in a hammock in the living room and Tien on the couch, taking turns fanning each other. Torrential rain came back and cooled everything down, which was nice, then Tien and I laid around some more listening to music off my iPod. I really wish I could've gotten photos of it because it's totally the kind of thing I'd love to photograph, but that's the problem with experiencing things first person. The power came back on, but now it's like 1am in San Francisco so I can't call Igor yet. Oh well, it's not like I'm in a rush to get anywhere.
Geckos on the wall A gecko just ran across the floor. This is remarkable not because it's a gecko and it's inside, but because it's on the floor. There are tons of geckos all over the walls. They chirp at night and sometimes wake me up. They eat bugs, so that's good. Nobody even pays attention to them except me. I asked Tien if she'd ever caught one and she said no, and she was totally unaware that if you catch one and pet its belly it will fall asleep. Maybe I should catch one and show everybody how it's done.
  •   •   •   •   •